BREEDING OF NORWICH
Selection: It is essential that the selection of breeding stock takes place in December at the latest. The exhibition season ends, so I had time to assess the value of my future breeding.
Preparation of males: On 15 December, the males are placed in breeder. The time for clarity is 12 hours and the temperature 12 degrees.
On 30 December, I give vitamin E in water (for vitamin pigeon) to mating. From that moment, my male no longer receive pâtée, this is very important, in order not to be too bold birds.
Preparation of females: On 15 December, females are placed in cages flight (2 meters) and truss. The weather remains normal light and temperature between 5 degrees and 10 degrees (without heating), which allows me to offer them food more challenging as the pâtée, but also the seeds sprouted. A certain amount of fat is essential, what not to say that birds are to be obese!
For the continuation of artificial light, it is possible to put birds prematurely condition, one or two months earlier. The light is on hormones by the retina of the eye which themselves act on physical activity.
The second week of February is often the time when I start mating, this is when I cut the nails and feathers around the sex of birds.
Generally, I like to let the birds by couples except for my 3 or 4 best male, which I destine 2 females, which is a maximum, especially with a young male.
Throughout the breeding season, I filed a grid above my drawers that I covered with a sheet of paper to be regularly replaced.
This system allows me to receive a cage much cleaner, birds can no longer pecking at the remains of pâtée rotten. Attention, this grid will be withdrawn as soon as the young come out of the nest.
The nests that are using clay and are perforated with small holes for good ventilation, the nest will be swinging in the cradle. The nests are Jo wooden crates painted, square-shaped (10 cm x 10cm), whose background is a mesh net and hanging from the front. In this way, the female has all the necessary space to build its nest under its own size.
The nest and cotton (Sisal) will be placed in the cage breeding with the male before introducing the female.
When the female is on its nest, it can in no way see the boom. The eggs of stone (fake) will be disinfected in water Déttol added.
Have a good humidity in the room breeding is very important. Between 70 and 80% humidity is ideal for outbreaks. But conversely, too much humidity can be dangerous for the weaning period.
When you have premises outside the house, a pilot of 8 watts at night, can save fertilized eggs and young. In the event waking inopportune, females can return to their nest without s'effrayer.
For the weaning period, I place my youth in a cage flight (no perch) and weaning is carried out solely by males.
Beware of pecking. This problem is the answer to farmers who surpeuplent their cages.
Selection: It is essential that the selection of breeding stock takes place in December at the latest. The exhibition season ends, so I had time to assess the value of my future breeding.
Preparation of males: On 15 December, the males are placed in breeder. The time for clarity is 12 hours and the temperature 12 degrees.
On 30 December, I give vitamin E in water (for vitamin pigeon) to mating. From that moment, my male no longer receive pâtée, this is very important, in order not to be too bold birds.
Preparation of females: On 15 December, females are placed in cages flight (2 meters) and truss. The weather remains normal light and temperature between 5 degrees and 10 degrees (without heating), which allows me to offer them food more challenging as the pâtée, but also the seeds sprouted. A certain amount of fat is essential, what not to say that birds are to be obese!
For the continuation of artificial light, it is possible to put birds prematurely condition, one or two months earlier. The light is on hormones by the retina of the eye which themselves act on physical activity.
The second week of February is often the time when I start mating, this is when I cut the nails and feathers around the sex of birds.
Generally, I like to let the birds by couples except for my 3 or 4 best male, which I destine 2 females, which is a maximum, especially with a young male.
Throughout the breeding season, I filed a grid above my drawers that I covered with a sheet of paper to be regularly replaced.
This system allows me to receive a cage much cleaner, birds can no longer pecking at the remains of pâtée rotten. Attention, this grid will be withdrawn as soon as the young come out of the nest.
The nests that are using clay and are perforated with small holes for good ventilation, the nest will be swinging in the cradle. The nests are Jo wooden crates painted, square-shaped (10 cm x 10cm), whose background is a mesh net and hanging from the front. In this way, the female has all the necessary space to build its nest under its own size.
The nest and cotton (Sisal) will be placed in the cage breeding with the male before introducing the female.
When the female is on its nest, it can in no way see the boom. The eggs of stone (fake) will be disinfected in water Déttol added.
Have a good humidity in the room breeding is very important. Between 70 and 80% humidity is ideal for outbreaks. But conversely, too much humidity can be dangerous for the weaning period.
When you have premises outside the house, a pilot of 8 watts at night, can save fertilized eggs and young. In the event waking inopportune, females can return to their nest without s'effrayer.
For the weaning period, I place my youth in a cage flight (no perch) and weaning is carried out solely by males.
Beware of pecking. This problem is the answer to farmers who surpeuplent their cages.
A lack of vitamins leads the pecking, especially the D and D3.
Do not forget the grit, cuttlefish bones, stone pecking (preferably pink) and
millet in clusters, they are very useful during weaning.
COLOR: Craindre colour is a false problem that frightens fans Norwich. It is not logical because with modern dyes, artificial coloring has become very simple. It is obvious that non-colored birds can also show their qualities.
It belongs to the amateur making his choice.
If you choose to dye:
1) Please note in colouring as the plumage of birds too hard, you reinforce the shortcomings of plumage.
2) You must be aware of the constraints that it causes each day to give the same amount of dye. If you go on vacation, the trainer of service will face an additional problem.
3) During the exhibition season, we must continue to give the dye, a bird can make a "small-driven" and without any dye, new feathers repousseront yellow and your bird will bicolore.
I colour my youth when Norwich have six weeks. I think you get the best results by using a combination of intensive Bogena Carophyl and orange.
Method of preparation:
6 grams of intensive Bogena + 3 grams Carophyl orange mixed in a litre of boiled water. This water is kept chilled in the refrigerator. Mix one part of pâtée plus one share plus one share rusk dye. Make sure that the proportions remain constant to avoid an irregular coloration.
Method Jo Schifflers: last year, another method has been tried, it is a stain on drinking water only, using the same proportions indicated above. To avoid dirty cages with coloured water, I use a hamster bottles fitted with a small steel ball. The bird pushes the ball with nothing to drink splash. Young gradually and easily get used to this way of drinking. In addition, water remains to be shielded from the air and droppings.
COUPLES OF SUPPORT: For a beginner farmer, happen couples support is certainly take the risk of compromising its breeding season.
I noticed that my Norwich are more efficient to raise their young in the second round, so I automatically returns all my eggs in the first brood.
My method is to allow the female to lay her eggs then are the Lizards raising, the eggs they are hatched by females Norwich.
Establish a good foster family is very important, so I use the Lizard, very good breeder. Besides, I found that my young suffer no pecking.
But we must absolutely encourage young females to breed Norwich, otherwise, their instinct livestock could disappear.
Remember that the ultimate goal is to raise Norwich of good quality. By whom they have been bred, east of second importance.
BREEDING A HAND: Very few farmers talk about it ... and yet!
I am confident that feed the young in the nest (especially at night) can save a lot of young people, especially the first few days. To do so, I use a syringe and as food, I give "Energette" at Ravasi while Jo gives Prestige NutriBird A21 from Versele-Laga.
COLOR: Craindre colour is a false problem that frightens fans Norwich. It is not logical because with modern dyes, artificial coloring has become very simple. It is obvious that non-colored birds can also show their qualities.
It belongs to the amateur making his choice.
If you choose to dye:
1) Please note in colouring as the plumage of birds too hard, you reinforce the shortcomings of plumage.
2) You must be aware of the constraints that it causes each day to give the same amount of dye. If you go on vacation, the trainer of service will face an additional problem.
3) During the exhibition season, we must continue to give the dye, a bird can make a "small-driven" and without any dye, new feathers repousseront yellow and your bird will bicolore.
I colour my youth when Norwich have six weeks. I think you get the best results by using a combination of intensive Bogena Carophyl and orange.
Method of preparation:
6 grams of intensive Bogena + 3 grams Carophyl orange mixed in a litre of boiled water. This water is kept chilled in the refrigerator. Mix one part of pâtée plus one share plus one share rusk dye. Make sure that the proportions remain constant to avoid an irregular coloration.
Method Jo Schifflers: last year, another method has been tried, it is a stain on drinking water only, using the same proportions indicated above. To avoid dirty cages with coloured water, I use a hamster bottles fitted with a small steel ball. The bird pushes the ball with nothing to drink splash. Young gradually and easily get used to this way of drinking. In addition, water remains to be shielded from the air and droppings.
COUPLES OF SUPPORT: For a beginner farmer, happen couples support is certainly take the risk of compromising its breeding season.
I noticed that my Norwich are more efficient to raise their young in the second round, so I automatically returns all my eggs in the first brood.
My method is to allow the female to lay her eggs then are the Lizards raising, the eggs they are hatched by females Norwich.
Establish a good foster family is very important, so I use the Lizard, very good breeder. Besides, I found that my young suffer no pecking.
But we must absolutely encourage young females to breed Norwich, otherwise, their instinct livestock could disappear.
Remember that the ultimate goal is to raise Norwich of good quality. By whom they have been bred, east of second importance.
BREEDING A HAND: Very few farmers talk about it ... and yet!
I am confident that feed the young in the nest (especially at night) can save a lot of young people, especially the first few days. To do so, I use a syringe and as food, I give "Energette" at Ravasi while Jo gives Prestige NutriBird A21 from Versele-Laga.
Alain NOTTET with the participation of Joseph SCHIFFLERS
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