Friday, October 11, 2013

Traveling To A Show

Friday, October 4, 2013

The Moult and Color Feeding by Chris Goodall

THE MOULT AND COLOUR FEEDING

BY CHRIS GOODALL MAY 2004

After my youngsters are weaned off, they remain in the breeding cages until they are six weeks old. During this time they are fed on the food they were reared on, namely egg food and soaked seed. At this time they will drink copious amounts of water and care should be taken to ensure fresh supplies are always available.

At six weeks of age they are transferred to a large aviary, where they will remain until the moult is nearly completed. At this stage the youngsters are introduced to dry food. Crushed hemp, rape and pinhead oatmeal are given in addition to the egg food and soaked seed. Canary seed is added to the diet a week later

It is vital during the moult to provide a diet that will assist your canaries to produce the quality of feather desired. The selective pairing of the parents will determine 3/4 of the feather quality. A balanced diet, rich in protein, to supply essential amino acids is necessary to produce the finished article. Sprouted seed, hard boiled egg and sunflower hearts are all high in amino acids. Canary seed, the staple diet is more valuable at this time of the year than any other as it contains silicon in the brown coating of the seed, and enters the blood stream in small amounts to help in feather making.

Extra vitamins can be added either, as I do, by using commercial products at the recommended dose or by giving a natural source such as dandelions or spinach. Oily seeds such as niger, hemp, maw, and linseed can be added to the diet in small quantities. These will provide the extra oil that is necessary for feather luster.

First round youngsters will start to moult at 8 to 10 weeks old, second round youngsters at a slightly younger age. The new feathers replace the old in a definite pattern, beginning along the breast and back, finishing with the neck and head.

The moulting process with the breeding birds is controlled by hormones. Because of their different hormones the cock bird will lose his sex drive and song, and generally start moulting before the hen. A few tips that will aid a successful moult are, give a bath or spray on warm clays, this is most beneficial in assisting the growth and condition of new feathers. Keep birds in draught free quarters. This is a requirement throughout the year, but more so during the moult as this can stop the moulting process altogether. We say they are "stuck in the moult" and will be extremely unwell. If this happens try to keep the bird warm, add a pinch of Flowers of Sulphur to the soft food, and as a tonic Syrup of Buckthorn administered at the rate of one drop to the ounce (30mls) of drinking water. This should get the moult started again.

Finally although the birds need plenty of fresh air and good light it is advisable to moult the birds out of direct sun. The object is to moult the birds with good even colour and we all know the bleaching effect the sun can cause. Which brings us on to colour feeding.

Norwich Canaries have been colour fed for showing since the 1880's. At first the hot Natal pepper was used, and then it became the custom to use prepared cayenne pepper from the Capsicum plant. This method, which in my case, involved mixing four parts egg food to one part pepper with a little olive oil to infuse the pepper into the egg food. I used this until Canthaxantin took over in the early 1960's.

I can remember the first time I saw Norwich at a show fed with this new product. It was at Kings Lynn C.B.S., approximately 1963 and the birds belonged to Dr. Smither of Peterborough. The birds were very patchy and a burnt rusty colour because the colouring agent had been given too strong and not at regular feeds. This is still seen at shows today as fanciers try colour feeding for the first time. It usually takes a couple of years to get the quantities right.

The old method of cayenne pepper can still be used today, but most breeders will be using a product sold under the brand name Carophyll Red*. This is a water soluble product and can either be used in food, or water. I use both methods and I will endeavor to describe the way 1 colour feed my birds.

Throughout the moulting season, which usually starts with the first cock bird dropping feathers about the third week in June, till the end of December for the last ones that dropped feathers. The birds in flights are colour fed on a three day rotating sequence.

The first day they receive the carophyll in the water. The reason I stated in the last paragraph, "I will endeavor to describe" is because it is difficult to give exact quantities as most people have a different measuring utensil. I use a 2 2 ml. spoon that comes with Vydex Products, and a level spoonful of carophyll Red is mixed with 1.5 litres of hot, not boiling water. Most people will advise boiling water, but I find this makes the Carophyll separate and within hours sinks to the bottom.

On day two I colour feed in the food. My mixture is prepared as follows. 10 grams. of Carophyll Red is mixed in a coffee grinder with 1 lb of the egg food that is used during the breeding season. The Carophyll must be mixed evenly throughout the 1 lb of egg food till its consistency is of a coarse powder. One part of this mixture is then added to six parts of egg food, cold water is added to make it crumbly and given at the rate of I teaspoonful per bird. When cold water is added to this mixture the egg food will look just the same as it did when given to rear your youngsters. If you add warm water the egg Food will be pink.

On the third day they do not receive any colouring agent at all. On this day they receive a mixture of equal parts of condition seed and pinhead oatmeal that has fish oil addled to it the evening before to soak in. Each bird is given 1 heaped teaspoonful. A level teaspoon of fish oil to 1 lb of seed is recommended, to which I add the same measure of a commercial multi-vitamin and mineral product which will adhere to the oiled seed.

This three day sequence continues till the birds just have the neck and head to moult. They are then removed from the aviary and caged separately. From then until the end of the show season they are fed only colour food starting at the rate of a teaspoonful every other day, and when they have just the face to finish they only have half a teaspoonful every other day.

Some breeders only do the colour feeding in the water, this is fine if the birds are being moulted out in flights. I would not advise coloured water in the cages as it stains the woodwork. If you have no flights and moult out in cages, I would advise using only colour food at the rate of one teaspoonful per day for two days, then miss a day. If the birds droppings are pink to red in colour this will indicate the strength of colour food is correct.

This is the worst period of a fancier's year with feathers everywhere and the birds are not at their best. However, it is worth it when an ugly duckling turns into a prized Norwich Canary.

Happy moulting.

Thursday, September 12, 2013

The Preparation To The Exhibitions by Alain Nottet

THE PREPARATION TO THE EXHIBITIONS

At the beginning of the month of September molt coming to an end, at least for the youth of the first brood, so it's time to think á separated young people in individual rearing cage. , Some fans have left moulting birds Aviary others prefer the cage to fly two systems are very good condition to suspend a cage of exposure so young people can get to know as soon as possible with the above, the young birds must be able to enter and leave freely of the cage, this is the beginning of learning to put the birds in confidence. During moulting it is essential that young birds stay in flight cage or Aviary in order to enable their to strengthen chest muscles but also to have a good harbour wings because outside functions natural and normal life as "drink and eat" is another capital "fly".

To evaluate the potential of each bird will have to separate the individual breeder youth in order to appreciate the qualities but also the defects of our future Favorites, the constant observation of each of our subjects will make a first yard but be careful not to go too fast because a Norwich will much more time to come â its full maturity to some small race known as light.

He personally arrived me to eliminate a Norwich, subject to which I attachai not much credit, I had therefore given flight cage but two months later it is bird was completely metamorphosed and this bird won the gold medal at the liège PCBs.

Suspend a cage of exposure â each of the best subject is more on system to no longer take the bird in hand, after a certain time they feel confident and most spend even at night.

Then comes the always delicate moment contain them in the cage of exposure in order to move them on a shelf and it is the that begins the real training.

Initially, short of a few minutes are amply sufficient, because many birds are terribly stressed before the time periods in a cage of exhibitions become more more frequent but also more and more long, rewarding the bird â whenever it comes on the shelf offering him a small wild seed "bucket" is a good system.

Attention however not confuse training cage and cage of stay!

Problem of lighting

During the months d ' exhibition to be - it yes or no give bird an artificial lighting? Well honestly I do not know the answer! Both systems have their advantages but also disadvantages, and I will explain.

In my breeding my birds receive no artificial light source and is thus much more quiet (my building enjoys a good natural light, but at the shows they are subjected has artificial lighting powerful enough, as a consequence of the very nervous superpowers, the transition being much too large, it is only two or three days after the housing that the birds begin â to calm down.) Alas! It is too late the judgment is complete.

One of my friends suggested I place a suspended fluorescent tube has my shelf of training to get young people to artificial lighting.

This system allows me to get the birds that I cause not to disturb the rest of my livestock.

THE VAPORIATION

Once that molt is complete I offers more bath á my birds I prefer to use a small spray my birds are then spray lightly and this two is three times a week I have found that birds like to be sprayed, I always try to spray late morning bird plumage will be completely dry before the dark. The plumage brightness can add a (plume spray) little attention not to exceed the folder recommended by the manufacturer i.e. 5 ml to 300 ml mineral water

It is preferable to stop spraying birds at least 5 a 6 days before the judgment otherwise the plumage will not tighten enough time especially with birds longer feathers.

Here it is with very great attention â € a multitude of small detail that it is possible to bring its birds at the top level and make good results in the exhibitions.As an athlete of high level he has him also his maximum point of form, example: a Norwich at its best level of form in October will most also look in December which seems logical, the bird is not a machine that can expose each week to make his "Little League".

Participate in three exhibitions on the year is more than enough for a Norwich be confront á problems molting or poor results during the breeding season.

CAGE OF EXPOSURE

A good presented Norwich exposure in a cage in poor condition, will do that penalized the bird, it is very important to control the State of these until the contest period starts!

- check the status of the storefront!

- control the fixation of the perch!

- Check if the colour is impeccable!

- Do not forget that for the green color, there are a number of manufacturing, it is therefore not repainting the Interior of its cages with anything!

CONCLUSIONS

Thus understood, thus practised, training becomes a routine that helps enormously to the real test that is less harsh because the bird is more or less accustomed.

Health and training are the two main assets to bring the sport fullness and the realization to the heights.

A.NOTTET Web Site: http://norwich.be

Sunday, August 4, 2013

NORWICH PLAINHEAD HISTORY

by A.W. Barnes

Certainly the Canary, as a domesticated species was fairly common in some countries and in England by the middle of the 16th Century and, therefore, it must be presumed with some justification that the breeding of different varieties began in England sometime in the 17th Century. With the Norwich Canary, the name, of course, is geographical in origin just as other varieties grew up with the names of Yorkshire, Gloster and the Border in the Border countries.

The Norwich Plainhead Canary, as its name implies, was first developed by the people of East Anglia, particularly by those whose homes were in and around Norwich. Records show that the establishment of the Norwich coincided with the growth of East Anglia as the centre of the English wool trade, brought about by the immigration in the Middle Ages of the Flemish weavers.

This canary became almost as much a part and parcel of the scene as the spinning wheels and looms in the settlers' cottages. By the middle of the 17th Century, the Norwich had become firmly established and had already survived its ups and downs.

Other varieties had risen in popularity, only to fall again into disfavour, but not so the Plainhead. We may well ask why the Norwich has outlasted many other varieties, and what is the reason for its continued popularity? The answer is that it has remained a favourite because it fulfils the idea of numerous fanciers of what a canary should look like - a stately looking bird. In a show cage it is certainly something worth admiring.

As others have pointed out before, the Norwich does show certain definite East Anglian qualities. It has been described as a jolly, comfortable bird, being solid rather than graceful. During the 18th Century the Norwich Canary became larger in size, unwieldy, rough in feather, and it was in the following century that lumps began to appear. This was brought about by the mania to produce size in Norwich, resulting in excessive feather through double buffing.

Fortunately this craze for size died a natural death, and today quality is every breeder's aim. The lovely, short bird with a round head, short beak, good depth, short wings and tail and round body is here to stay.

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

A Guideline on How to Breed and Exhibit Canaries

By Candace Pezzuti

Index

Chapter 1: Terminology

Chapter 2: Selecting Your Breeding Stock

Chapter 3: Breeding Preparation and Introduction of Pairs

Chapter 4: Breeding

Chapter 5: Weaning Chicks Away from Parents

Chapter 6: Moulting Period

Chapter 7: Show Training and Preparation of Young Birds

Chapter 1: Terminology

Feather Quality:

Feather Quality by definition refers to the type of feather that the bird exhibits. A bird will fall into two types of feather quality.

Buff, Non-Intensive, Non-Frosted are all the same terms for a feather that is broader in width and will have white edging at the end of the feather shaft; it will not hold any color. A buff bird will give the appearance of being fluffier than a yellow bird.

Yellow, Intensive, Frost are all the same terms for a feather that is narrower in width and will have the color go down to the tip of the feather shaft. A yellow bird will give the appearance of being shiner in color and will have a deeper color depth than a buff bird.

As a type breeder will use the terms buff and yellow to refer to the feather quality of the bird not the COLOR of the bird.

The other terms that follow buff and yellow are terms that mean the same description only they are used by colorbred breeders.

On the show bench a bird will be judged in the type categories for conformation, feather quality, stance, and performance.

Feather quality will also affect the depth of color you will develop in your stud. Yellow improves the deep rich color you will want in your birds but too much yellow will make your birds longer looking in appearance and they will loose their type. Type meaning their conformation look.

Ground Color:

Ground color refers to the color of the bird without any melanin. There are two types of ground color, one is yellow and the other is white.

Yellow ground birds are classified by the amount of melanin that they show. Melanin is the black/brown color on top of the yellow ground color. The amount of melanin will determine which class the bird will be entered into a show.

Show Classes for yellow ground birds are as follows: Clear to Grizzle, 1/4 variegated, 1/2 variegated, 3/4 variegated, heavy variegated or self-green.

White ground color will include birds that are pure white to also include birds that are blue, blue white variegated. But a breeder will refer to all the white ground birds as white even the blues. It's the ground color the breeder is describing. A white ground bird will also give you fawns, which is a mutation of the cinnamon gene only showing on a white ground bird.
Show Classes for white ground birds are as follows: Clear to ½ variegated, ¾ variegated to self-blue, fawn any variegation of self to fawn.

Chapter Two: Selecting Your Breeding Stock

Before you purchase your breeding stock please go to as many local and National Shows that you can attend prior to buying any birds that you plan to use in your stud.

The biggest mistake a novice breeder will make is their initial purchase of breeding stock. Without attending any shows you won't know what's winning on the show bench and what champion breeders are aiming for in their stud.

A breed has a standard which probably hasn't been updated for years. What was once the popular standard is not what champion breeders today are showing and winning with. Don't be in a rush to buy birds that you think look cute. You'll only end up getting rid of them after paying big bucks and will have to start over.

Do your homework, go to shows look at what's winning on the bench and talk to as many breeders as possible. Most champion breeders are more than willing to help a novice get into the hobby.

No matter what breed you decide on, buy the best stock possible. Remember, its quality not quantity that counts on the show bench. Stay in touch with that breeder and get as much information on the pedigrees of the birds you purchased. You'll need the pedigree information down the road when you are pairing up your birds. A good breeder will always provide this information if requested.

Keep good records of your breeding from year to year. Whether it's done manually or on a computer program …KEEP GOOD RECORDS.

When selecting your stock remember the basics. You want good type/confirmation, as close to the standard as possible, feather quality, which means you, need good yellows as well as buffs. A selection of colors also is important. You don't want all green birds in your aviary. But be careful with color, you need the type and feather first, color can always come later.

White birds can be used as yellows; cinnamons can decrease the size of your birds while increasing the feather quality.

Temperament in your stock is also important. Show birds must be calm and easily trained to stay in a show cage sometimes holding a position for as long as a day or two depending on the show.

Type birds are considered position birds, which mean that they have to hold a certain stance on a perch during the entire show.

If you buy birds that are wild they will not be show birds no matter how long you try to train them. They will never take to the cage and settle down. These birds are usually aggressive in nature and will be aggressive during breeding season. They may harm the hen trying to breed or they might harm the chicks, wanting to go back to nest. If you have these birds don' waste your time and ruin your line, get rid of them. They are pet birds not show birds.

Don't sell your chicks too young. Most type birds don't blossom until they are a year old or more. You don't know what you have until they mature; so give your birds the time they deserve to show their stuff.

Chapter 3: Breeding Preparation and Selection of Pairs

Hens and cocks should have already been separated after the last breeding season. If you haven't separated your birds that will be the first step in selecting your current breeding stock.

All birds have faults, some you can live with, others you can't. A spilt down the back of the neck, an oval shaped corona, buffing around the eye, are all faults that you don't want in your line. Once these faults get into your line they will show up again and again. Do not breed these birds, they have faults that you cannot live with or work with. Too big a bird, poor feather quality, you can always improve by using better breeding techniques.

You should trim the vents and toenails on all your breeding stock prior to pairing them up. Do not trim or pull out the guide feather on the vent of the bird. These are the feathers that come directly out of the vent. You want to trim all around the vent area. Trim the toenails so that the hen or cock cannot puncture the eggs in the nest.

Always pair up your best birds to your best birds. Remembering the type, feather, well centered rounded corona; if it's a consort than a nice well rounded head with depth to the back of the skull. Show birds don't produce show birds. A good breeder will value the Stock bird, which is a little larger than the show birds but has the extra of everything the breeder is looking for in that show bird. If you keep breeding all small birds than your line will get to the point that the birds will loose their type.

Remembering that too much cinnamon in your line will reduce the size and make the feather too fine and you will loose the depth of color in your birds. Too much yellow will make you birds look long and narrow and you will loose the type in your line. Too much buff and you will have big, loose-feathered birds with washed out colors.

So there is a lot to remember when pairing up your birds. Refer back to your pedigrees and be careful as to how much buff, yellow and cinnamon you have in that particular pairing and what you expect to get from that pairing. Have a plan. Take your time and write down on the breeding card why you thought this would be a good pair and produce chicks you were expecting. If you don't get the results you were looking for; then these notes will come in handy for the following breeding season.

A hen will display type better than a cock. The cock bird is usually bigger, but you don't want a big rough type cock bird paired to your small type hen. The cock should also display the same qualities as the hen but somewhat larger.

Always breed your birds in pairs. The cock is a big help in feeding both the hen when she sits on the nest as well as feeding the chicks. I find that some of my cocks are better feeders than the hens.

I do not suggest breeding more than two clutches a season. If you over breed your birds then you will not have these birds to breed next year. Breeders get greedy, and wind up hurting themselves when they don't have these birds breeding for them the following year.

My last suggestion if you are really interested in breeding good quality canaries whether you plan on exhibiting or not is to attend shows where you can see the difference in a Breeder's line and speak to these breeders and really get to know the hobby before spending a lot of money purchasing stock from any one particular breeder. You'll save yourself money, time and frustration by having to start over again with different stock because what you though looked cute wasn't even a good quality pet bird. If you educate yourself before hand and avoid all the pitfalls, you'll probably stick with the hobby.

Talk with Champion Breeders that have done all their winnings for a number of years. These breeders have nothing to loose by giving the Novice truthful and useful information. It's their reputation that is on the line and they don not fear any new competition from a novice. It has taken them years to build up their particular line of birds and they know how hard that can be.

Join all the specialty clubs pertaining to your breed of bird. They need your support and will provide you with valuable information in their newsletters and websites.

Take pictures of birds you like at the shows and hang them on the wall of your birdroom as reference to what you're aiming for in your stud.

Remember a judge's opinion is subjective and only one person's opinion on any given day. Do not get discouraged. Go to another show and see how your bird does under a different judge on a different day. Ask the judges why they placed your bird on the show bench the way that they did. You can learn a lot by asking the judges after the show what they think of your bird and what suggestions they have as to what you need to improve your line.

Showing your bird is competitive, but it's also a social hobby in which you should enjoy the company of your fellow hobbyists, win or lose.

Chapter 4: Breeding Requirements:

Breeding Season: Once a year

Depending on where you live in the country most Breeders setup in February and breed through May. In Las Vegas because of our hot climate we breed from January to the beginning of May.

Lighting:

Canaries need 14 hours of daylight to breed. We increase the artificial lights 15 minutes every week starting in the December.

Remember do not go over more than 15 hours of daylight or you will throw you birds into a moult.

Nutritional Requirements:

To bring canaries into breeding condition we feed greens, niger seed, ground hemp seed and eggfood.

Every Breeder has their own receipt for eggfood. I have attached a copy of mine at the end of this article.

When preparing to feed green rinse them in white vinegar or salt water before using to destroy any bacteria that may be on the produce.

Birds love frozen green peas, zucchini shredded, broccoli, cabbage, corn on cob, apples, carrots, whole wheat bread, rye bread, corn bread.

I do not sprout seed because of bacteria concerns. I do however cook my seed just until the seeds pop open.

Do not feed spinach; the iron content in spinach blocks the formation of calcium.

Seeds that canaries eat: Canary Grass Seed, Niger, Hulled Oats, Hemp, Roller Mix (canary grass seed, rape and flax), when feeding rape seed only use the red canola rape. Black rape seed is a commercial grade seed and not good for canaries.

Please continue on to Page Two

A Guideline on How to Breed and Exhibit Canaries

By Candace Pezzuti

Page Two

Caging Requirements:

Breeding cages can vary in size but you need enough room for your pair to breed and feed their young. The average breeding cage is 18"L x 15"H x 15"D.

Place cuttlebone in the cage as an extra source of calcium.

Place a nest material holder on the cage and fill it with nestling material.

Canary Nest can be purchased from supplier online that deal with canary products.

A canary nest is round and usually made of plastic. You will need to sew a nest pad, which is made out of cotton to the bottom of the plastic nest.

I the sprinkle sevin powder 5% into the nest to prevent any type of mite or ant problem from getting into the nest. I also spread Sevin Powder in the flights and bottom of the breeding cages.

Sevin Powder 5% is not harmful to your birds BUT ANYTHING STRONGER WILL KILL THEM. Do not use 10 %.

Nestling material that can be purchased, I use commercial grade burlap from any fabric store.

The burlap needs to be washed several times, at least 4 in the washer with bleach and soap to remove the oils in the fabric. You then can cut the burlap into 1" squares and pull them apart. The strings can then be placed in the nest material holder for the birds to build their nests.

Water:

Birds need fresh water daily. If you use tube drinkers they need to be washed prior to refilling. Bacteria clings to glass and plastic drinkers.

Automatic watering systems need to be flushed at least once a week.

Most problems with birds getting sick can be prevented with Proper Management of your aviary.

Always wash your veggies, give fresh water daily and make sure your seed is clean and dust free.

Good ventilation is also important for your birds because it's the air they breathe. It's a good idea to invest in an air filter system.

Baths:

Birds need baths at least twice a week. Bathing helps keep the down the dander in the room as well as giving the feather the conditioning they need to keep the skin soft. This will help to prevent feather lumps especially in older birds.

Bathing also insures hatching since living in a dry climate eggs need a certain amount of humanity to break out of their shells.

You can also keep a small container of water in your aviary to keep the humanity level up. I add a drop of iodine in the water to prevent bacteria from accumulating.

Pulling your eggs:

I pull the eggs every day and replace them with a dummy egg. This way all the chicks will hatch on the same day.

I place the eggs in a plastic square container that is filled with walnut shell. I place a small piece of index card with the cage number on it and line them up beginning with cage number one. After the hen lays her fourth egg I replace all the eggs under her and take away the dummies.

If you use this method it will ensure all the chicks are the same size when born and have the same opportunity to get fed and banded all at the same rate of growth.

Candling Eggs:

I candle my eggs between 5-8 days old. The better you get at candling the less time it will take you to know the difference between a fertile egg and a non-fertile egg. If the eggs are no good remove the nest for 5 days before putting it back. Give the hen and cock time to breed again and rest.

Producing eggs takes a lot of calcium out of the hen's body she use her own calcium that is stored in her bones. So we don't want to over breed her or you might not have this hen to breed next year. Don't be greedy.

Hatching:

Eggs hatch between 13-14 days old. If the hen sits tight the eggs will hatch on the 13th day. This all depends on when you set your eggs and some breeders do not include the day the egg was set.

Hens that do not sit tight will usually hatch them 2-3 days later. Watch your bird and see if she is sitting tight on the nest and how often she gets off. New hens are the ones to watch, this is all new for them. If your hen is not in full breeding condition she will not sit tight and you will have a problem with her hatching them and feeding them. Don't rush the process.

If the eggs don't hatch by the 16th day I remove them to see if they are still alive. I use a stethoscope that comes with a blood pressure kit to listen for a heart beat. But do not put your finger on the hearing piece or you will get a false reading. You will be listening to your own pulse and not that of the heartbeat of the chick. Place the egg gently on a soft surface and place the round end of the stethoscope to the egg and listen for the heart beat. If you don't hear anything, the chick is dead in shell.

If the egg is dead you should open it to examine why the chick died. Was it fully formed? Did it look like it died from low humanity, was the egg not turned by hen in the nest, Ecoli problem, etc. This information will help you prevent this from happening again if you can find the cause.

Eggs are porous and they intake oxygen and also anything else that is in the air or nest.

Always wash your hand prior to handling eggs. I also recommend that you keep a hand liquid hand sanitizer in your birdroom. I never touch my eggs, chicks, and birds without washing my hands first and then applying a liquid hand sanitizer. Prevention is always the key.

Banding:

Chicks should be banded between 8-10 days old. Closed bands are used in this country. The band can be obtained through your local clubs or through the specialty club of that particular breed of bird. The band will include the initials of the club, band number, color of the year and year date.

The club secretary will have a record of those bands you purchased. A buyer can contact the secretary of the club and ask who the breeder was of a particular band number/year for a bird.

Closed bands are a requirement as proof of a breeder when entering a bird for exhibition for a show.

There are 6 years of colors and then the repeat. The color is dependant on what year it is.

Year	Band Color
2003/09	Red
2004/10	Blue
2005/11	Silver
2006/12	Orange
2007/13	Purple
2008/14	Green

Procedure for banding: You hold the birds foot with your left hand and take the first three toes and hold them forward, keeping the back toe behind them, slip the band over the first three toes and then over the back toe, you will need a toothpick to pull the back toe forward and over the band. You can apply a dab of Neosporin on the foot prior to banding, this will prevent infection if you scrape the birds foot while banding it; its also a good lubricant.

Recommended Reference Sources:

Linda Hogan's book called " Canary Tales" www.geocities.com/Heartland/Valley/6364/

"IGBA" International Gloster Breeders Association-US Chapter www.igbaglostersusa.com

"NPC" National Norwich Plainhead Canary Club www.npcnorwich.com

"NCBS" National Cage Bird Show www.ncbs.org

"ACFA" American Canary Fanciers Association www.acfa-canaryclub.com

Chapter 5: Weaning Chicks away from Parents

Weaning chicks away from their parents takes time and good knowledge on part of the breeder. You should have been watching your chicks as they grew. Some chicks are more aggressive and therefore become more independent than their clutch mates. Each breed, especially the larger breeds take longer to wean.

Fifes and Glosters can start to wean as early as 3-4 weeks but they may still be getting feed on some degree by their parents. I do not take the chicks away until at least 4 weeks for Glosters and Fifes and 5-6 weeks for the Norwich. But I watch each chick individually the day I separate them to see if they like their new environment and if they take to eating aggressively on their own.

If a chick does not look happy after being separated you will notice right away, within a few hours. Put the cock in with the chicks for a day or two if the hen is already back on the nest and has laid her second round.

If not place the chick back in the parent's cage for another day or two until they are psychologically ready. Birds are like people it's not only our physical needs but our psychological ones as well.

Once in a weaning cage try to place the chicks according to age. Keep the same food regiment as they grew up on.

Give them daily baths especially if you plan on showing your birds in the fall. Adding Epson salt or pigeon salts to the water gives the feathers a softer and more finished look.

Do not over crowd your birds. They fight for perch hierarchy, food, water, flying space etc.. You do not want to stress your weaning chicks by giving them an environment that is not bird friendly. This applies to all your birds, adults and well as fledglings.

When feeding put several dishes of feed around the flight so that all the birds do not have to compete for one dish or feeder. This will also reduce the stress of too many birds trying to get food.

Once you start to see your birds coming into their own you can separate what you think will be a show bird. Each show bird should have it's own cage until after show season.

You will want to keep these birds separated so that you can critic them along the way and give them the special attention they will need to win on the show bench.

Chapter 6: Moulting and Color Feeding

Canaries will start moulting from June until September/October after breeding season has ended. At this time you can reduce your lighting to natural light in your birdroom. Keep the temperature moderately cool and give your birds' daily baths.

Feed extra protein for the proper development of their feathers. Hard-boiled eggs sliced into quarters makes a good source of easily digestible protein. Keep giving them vitamins along with eggfood. Fresh, greens and fruits. Fresh water. Cuttlebone should always be in your flights and cages. Unflavored gelatin by Knox is a good source of calcium and protein that can be added to your eggfood for better development of the feathers.

Feed seeds rich in oils such as nyger, and flax seed.

Color Feeding has to start now while the birds are producing those new feathers. If you raise Norwich, Yorkshire, Lizard or colored bred canaries, now is the time to introduce color feeding.

Color feeding recipes vary from breeder to breeder and ingredients have changed over the years. I use the following formula to color feed my birds. Canthaxanthin, bogena, Orlux Can-tax, Orlux yellow color intensive. Mix together in one large container, will last one breeding season depending on how many birds you color feed. I add 1 teaspoon of the above mixture to about 16 cups of eggfood. Watch your birds closely as they begin to color in. You do not want your birds to look "burned" which would look like a rust color instead of the deep orange red your looking for. Better to color your birds in slowly then to overdose them and get the burnt affect that hinders you on the show bench.

Yellow feather birds will hold the coloring faster and deeper than a buff bird. So keep an eye on all your birds as they color in. Some birds eat more than others so they will color faster. If the bird is fully colored, separate it. Color feeding takes months and constant diligence on the part of the breeder. You can't color one day and skip the next. You have to be consistent with color feeding or your birds will not develop an even coloring.

Remember feathers are mostly made up of protein, so when developing these new feathers they need extra protein in their diet.

Moulting is very stressful especially in young birds so keep the environment as quiet as possible and give the supporting care we discussed in the previous paragraphs.

A young canary will moult all of its feathers the first year except their tail and wing feathers. Therefore, they are called "Unflighted" as compared to adults, which will loose their tail and wing feather and are called "Flighted" birds.

Chapter 7: Show Preparation and Training

Picking out your show team is probably the hardest thing to do. Pick the bird that catches your eye. If you have been attending shows you'll have a better handle on it. You will know that show bird in the flight. Show birds need the type standard but they also need the show personality as I call it. Some birds are perfect in type for the show bench but will not show because they do not have the personality to stay in a show cage for any period of time, no matter what you do in the training process. Do not waste time on these birds they may settle down for you the following year. If not, we discussed this topic already in selecting your pairs. I believe breeding in temperament is as important as trying to breed the standard type profile.

Start training your young birds after the moult usually the beginning of September. Introduce them to a show cage on a gradual basis. Try 1-2 hours at first. Place a drinker on the front of the show cage for now; later on we will discuss training them to drink from a show D Cup.

Put nyger and roller mix in the cage and maybe a piece of spray millet. You want to make it a pleasant experience for the bird; one that they will look forward to. Place your show cages under a direct light source because they will need to get use to bright lights on the show bench.

After a few days place the D Cup drinker on your show cage and fill it with water and place a small piece of roman lettuce, watercress or their favorite veggie in the drinker. The birds will smell the water and see the vegetables and will slowly get use to putting their head through the hole in the show cage to drink from the cup. Again, you have to watch your birds and know which ones take to it and which ones need more encouragement. Be patient, it takes some birds longer than others.

Gradually increase the length of time that the birds spend in the cage. Most shows are 2-3 days long. So your birds should be trained to remain in a show cage for 3 days.

Always present your birds in a clean, well-painted cage. The judge will take into consideration the presentation of your bird in its show cage. The bottom of the show cage should be filled with roller mix for Glosters, Fifes and Norwich.

Each breed of canary has its own type of show cage, seed requirements and water drinker cups. Educate yourself for your particular breed on the show requirements and the standard and points of judging that can be found in most show catalogs. Again, here is another reason to attend shows; it will provide you with show catalogs that have breeders advertising available stock, show standards and points for each breed. They will also include all the specialty clubs and membership forms.

Flying to a show will require a special traveling case. If you drive you will still need to keep your birds in a traveling cage to keep them from ruining their feathers and hurting themselves.

When you get to your show destination you should let your show team rest in individual cages a day before entering them in a show. Traveling does take its toll.

Bring your own bottled water or buy bottled water. Never, use the local water at a show. You do not know what is in that water system and you do not want your birds getting sick. Refer to my article on Giardia. Hope to see you at the show.

Disclaimer:

The information provided here is for educational purposes from my own personal experience and research. Do not hold me liable for anything printed within these pages. Please do your own reading and research. Consult your avian veterinarian if you have any concerns or problems.

Reprinting of this booklet without permission of the author is prohibited.

Giardia in Canaries

GIARDIA
By Candace Pezzuti

Giardia is a single celled, intestinal protozoan parasite. Giardi have been found to cause disease in birds, cats, dogs and even humans. One sure way for humans is eating sushi.

This parasite can be transmitted via the water supply. So be careful when traveling to a bird mart or a show out of town. You should always use bottled water for your birds.

Your own domestic drinking water may carry this parasite. It's always best to use bottled water when traveling, to drink, and for cleaning drinkers and feeders. The safest way to protect your birds is to boil their drinking water or use a reverse osmosis system in your home that filters the drinking water. This is not only good advice for your birds but for your own health as well.

Not only drinking water but any water that is used to clean out feeders, drinkers, etc can be contaminated, if the parasite exist in your water supply.

This parasite can exist in two forms in the blood. One is, trophozoite and the other is cysts traphozoite. The first form is the active form that moves by means of flagella. These parasites attach themselves to the small intestines. The second form are dormant cysts that can shed in the feces from an infected bird. These cyst can survive outside the host and infect other hosts (birds) without showing any symptoms.

All birds are susceptible to Giardia, but FLEDGINGS are the most susceptible. Here is where you will lose your fledgings, for no apparent reason. At about 8 weeks old they will SUDDENLY become sick, they will ruffle up, look sleepy and usually die within a 24-48 hour period. At this stage you will not be able to do anything to save them.

Diagnosis is hard to show through means of necropsy, tissue samples, blood work even electron microscopy will not reveal these parasites. But you can prevent this from happening during your next breeding season.

The treatment of choice is Metronidozole also called Flagyl. Pigeon breeders also use this anti-protozoa treatment for canker.

The Treatment consists of the following:

Use (6) 250 mg tablets crushed (use coffee grinder) to a gallon of distilled water. Always use distilled water when administering medication. Treat for 5 days. Then go off the treatment for a week ( 7 days). Then REPEAT the same process 2 times. So your birds are medicated for a total of 15 days with intervals between treatment times.

The reason for this is that the parasites and protozoa reproductive cycle varies at different stages so this way you are sure to get all of them. An antibiotic such as amoxicillin can be used together with the Metronidazole.

Whenever medicating your birds with medication in their drinking water MAKE SURE THEY ARE DRINKING THE WATER. Some birds can taste the difference in their water and will not drink. You will lose your birds because they stop drinking the water. Make sure you see ALL YOUR BIRDS DRINKING. This is good advice for any type of medication you give your birds. I prefer to add my medication in the egg food. I know they will eat it in the egg food especially if I add peas to it, they don't notice the taste of the medication.

If you did not experience any problems with the mortality of your fledgings then you do not have to use the treatment in the water but can add it to your egg food accordingly. Make sure the amount is not too strong depending on the amount of egg food each bird is given.

Prophylacticly, I use 6 tablets and 4 amoxicillin pills in my egg food ( appx 16 cups of egg food mixture) for 3 days; off a week then on again for another week, one month prior to breeding. This cleans out their system if they do have anything going on. PREVENTION IS THE KEY. ONCE A BIRD HAS AN ACTIVE INFECTION THE TREATMENT DOES NOT WORK IN MY EXPERIENCE.

As I mentioned in my opening paragraph this type of infection is more prominent then you may realize. People do have this condition and won't know unless they have an endoscopy performed. The treatment by the way is exactly the same except the dosage of course is larger.

This article is for information purposes only. I recommend you do your own reading and research on the subject. The author will not be held responsible for anything relating to this article.

This information is from my own experience and research. If you have any problems you should consult your veteranian.

Metronidazole can be obtained by different sources. Most pigeon suppliers carry it such as Siegel's, Jedd's and Global. Thomas Laboratories also has it. For your convenience call 800-359-8387 or visit their website. I do not recommend any particular supplier but offer this information for your convenience.

Remember the full name is Metronidazole also called Flagyl or Fish Zole.

Respectfully submitted by Candace Pezzuti.

Show Cage and Paint Requirements

Monday, May 20, 2013

Make Plans To Attend Our National Cage Bird Show

NATIONAL CAGE BIRD SHOW ~ “NCBS”

November 14-16 2013

Tulsa,OK

Visit www.ncbs.org

All details are posted on their web site.

Make Room Reservations Now

Also visit the Merchandise Page...Show your Support.

Friday, May 17, 2013

Benefits of Chickweed

Chickweed

Some of the nutritious, health giving herbs and spices are just sprouting as weeds in your back yard, and not all people are aware of their health benefits. Chickweed is one of such herbs which can be easily found along the sides of gardens and lawns. It is called with different names such as satin flower, winterweed or starweed, because of its star-shaped flowers.

It is not commonly sold in the market, but it grows abundantly in the outdoors and can easily be picked and added to salads. Newly picked chickweed is great for salads because of its slightly salty and bitter taste. It can be eaten raw and is a good source of fiber, proteins and the GLA or gamma-linolenic acid, an essential fatty acid, which offers the same benefits as omega-6 fatty acid.

Minerals such as iron, zinc, magnesium potassium and calcium are also found in chickweed. It is also a good source of the Vitamin B complex, C and A.

Chickweed contains saponins, which help in dissolving plaque buildup found in arteries. Saponins are also proven to be beneficial in helping the body get rid of fatty substances and other toxins. A good way to lose weight will be to include chickweed in your regular diet, either as an herb or a tea, because it can help the body remove excess fat.

Chickweed may also be used as a poultice to treat any painful or burned part of the body. It can soothe inflammation and reduce infection. To use as a poultice, simply boil the chickweed plant, let it cool and then spread on a thin cloth. Apply the cloth with the chickweed on the affected area of the skin. It may also be used for treating eye infections or inflammation, such as sties, or conjunctivitis.

Taking chickweed tea regularly can help cure allergy symptoms, urinary tract infections, coughing and kidney stones. When making tea out of chickweed, it is best to use fresh than dried herbs. Let the herbs steep in hot water for about five minutes and drink at least two cups daily for about six weeks.

Chickweed baths are traditionally given to people suffering from joint and muscle pains, even eczema. The affected area is often soaked in warm water with fresh chickweed in several hours, depending on how serious the pain is.

erhaps the fact that chickweed is a wild weed and grows anywhere, makes it easy for people to be unaware of its medicinal properties. Look around your garden and discover the benefits of chick weed

Kristine Rigdon
President of NPC

National Norwich Plainhead Canary Club

Friday, October 11, 2013

Traveling To A Show

Friday, October 4, 2013

The Moult and Color Feeding by Chris Goodall

Thursday, September 12, 2013

The Preparation To The Exhibitions by Alain Nottet

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

CHAMPION BREEDER ALAIN NOTTET

JOIN AND BECOME A MEMBER TODAY

Sunday, August 4, 2013

NORWICH PLAINHEAD HISTORY

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

A Guideline on How to Breed and Exhibit Canaries

By Candace Pezzuti

Chapter 1: Terminology

Chapter Two: Selecting Your Breeding Stock

Chapter 3: Breeding Preparation and Selection of Pairs

Chapter 4: Breeding Requirements:

A Guideline on How to Breed and Exhibit Canaries

By Candace Pezzuti

Giardia in Canaries

The Treatment consists of the following:

Show Cage and Paint Requirements

Monday, May 20, 2013

Make Plans To Attend Our National Cage Bird Show

Friday, May 17, 2013

Benefits of Chickweed